Signature Battlefield Series: Feudal Japan and the Battlefields of Sekigahara, Kawanakajima and Beyond

Today we will gather from all around the world to begin our time-traveling adventure into Feudal Japan. Once everyone has arrived, we will come together for our Welcome Dinner and meet our guides—as well as our guest host, the illustrious Daniele Bolelli. Expect lively discussions about all things Japan, a traditional Japanese meal, and perhaps even a beverage or two.

Daniele's Take: I look forward to meeting you all!

Overnight Location: Nagoya Kanko Hotel

Today we will explore the Seki Cutlery Festival. Seki has a long history of producing the finest quality swords and blades in the world. Seki’s history with blades spans over 900 years and today we will get a taste of this tradition. Throughout the town we will see sword-forging and polishing demonstrations, cutting and sheathing performances and sword collection displays. We will also explore the outdoor knife show that boasts a multitude of stalls for all those interested in making a purchase.

Our first stop in Seki will be the Seki Kazuga Shinto Shrine and perhaps we will get a blessing for our trip. We will then visit the Seki Traditional Swordsmith Museum, and Eriko (our local guide) will be with us to help us explore the museum and to give us deeper insights into the festival itself. Just outside the museum we will gather for a Sword Making Demonstration.

Before splitting up to explore the festival on your own we will visit the Cutlery Museum, Feather Museum (a great place to get some amazing nail clippers and razors), explain where we will meet at day's end, and point out where one might take in the Iaido demonstration – a must-see and a big hit with tour participants in the past. Iaido is a martial art that studies the sword and how to draw, strike and return the blade to its scabbard in fluid one – some say beautiful – motion. It is always amazing to watch the skill and concentration of the demonstrators. Besides, it is a cool way to bring you back to feudal times and prepare you for the next day’s hike.

Image by Myles Wilmott

As you explore today, remember a key ingredient to enjoying any festival in Japan is eating from a street vendor or two. Take in some street food and enjoy a Japanese beer as you explore all that the festival has to offer. Make sure you take a good look at the knives sure to be on display for sale. You might want to bring home a super sharp kitchen blade so you can be a samurai when you cook dinner…

With that said, our last stop in Seki will be the Spyder.co Knife Museum and shop. It will be our first time here and thus we will have to take our time visiting their blade displays, choosing what Spyder knife to bring home and posing with their monstrous “Gulliver's Special Knife”!

After our arrival at the evening’s hotel we will sneak out for an Unagi dinner or Japanese-style barbequed eel – a local favorite.

Daniele's Take: I'm beyond excited to return to Japan, and a day around samurai swords is the perfect way to get things started

Overnight Location: Fairfield by Marriott Gifu Seiryu Satoyama Park

Today you will be immersed in the spirit of ancient Japan by walking in the footsteps of the samurai of old … From Seki we will make our way to Magome to hike the Magome/Tsumago trail. Here we will discover the 8‑km stretch of the remains of the Nakasendo Highway – the route through the Kiso Valley which connected ancient Edo with the rest of Japan. All around you will be signs of feudal Japan – from the cobblestones you will walk upon to the ancient shrines and cypress forests.  Along the way we will be offered free tea in the smoky interior of the 250-year-old Ichikokutochi Tateba Chaya... Be sure to also see the weeping cherry stands next to the teahouse. Perhaps we will even take the opportunity to "meditate" below the rushing water of the O-taki and Me-taki Waterfalls just like Miyamoto Musashi did...

We will take our time on the trail and be regaled by Daniele on some of the hidden gems that many tourists – Japanese or foreigner – often walk right past. If you want to fill your Nakasendo experience to the brim, be sure to stick closely to our guest host for the day.

When we arrive in Tsumago we will be pleasantly rewarded with a town which looks virtually untouched for centuries. Tsumago is a traditional post town that welcomed visitors on the path to and from Tokyo. It is one of the best-preserved post towns in Japan and is like visiting an open-air museum. While walking the town it is easy to imagine there are ninja stalking the rooftops – waiting patiently for you to present a nice target before striking. Or perhaps the 13 Assassins are planning the coming assault just down the street, or a frame from a Frank Miller Wolverine comic will come alive just around the corner.

Of special note, we will visit the Waki Honjin Okuya which is an excellent example of a samurai-era post-town inn. Built in 1877 from local wood, the inn still carries the lingering scent of cypress within the walls of this National Important Cultural Property. From here we will leave Tsumago for a quick trip to our first Onsen town - Hirugami Onsen.

We will arrive at our hotel early enough to soothe any sore muscles or bones we may have gained over our day's hike in their amazing public baths. We highly recommend this very Japanese communal experience which will ensure that you are ready for the traditional meal you will be served right at the hotel. Oh, and if you desire - you can always return to the onsen after dinner...

Daniele's Take: I can't wait for you to meet Eriko, our local guide. She's the funniest, sweetest lady one can hope to have as a guide. We will try to stop at the small shrines to pay our respects and to journey back to feudal Japan.

Overnight Location: Yurui No Yado Keizan

We are off to see our first two castles today and the historic spot of perhaps the most loved, commemorated, and touted example of samurai valor and ethics – the Five Battles of Kawanakajima.

First, we will set out on the road to Matsumoto to visit its wonderful castle. Matsumoto Castle is one of the most beautiful and historically intact castles in all of Japan. It was built during the Sengoku Jidai (Warring States Period) around 1593 (just prior to Sekigahara). It was never attacked during those times and was spared during World War II as well. Matsumoto is known as the "Black Castle" and this hirajiro (a castle built on a plain) is both forbidding and beautiful.

After exploring Matsumoto Castle, we return to our coach and have lunch on our own at a Japanese truck stop / convenience store as we head toward Kawanakajima. Japanese highway stops offer a surprising variety of dining and shopping options… be sure to buy some of the stranger Japanese snacks on offer.

As we drive north, we will learn of Kawanakajima’s importance to samurai culture and discuss these heroic battles with Bolelli. Only then will we arrive at Saijo-San (Mount Saijo) to see the magnificent view from Uesugi Kenshin’s camp. We will then continue to the Morozumi Masakiyo gravesite which also gives one an idea of Uesugi's position before the battle. We will continue to the Yamamoto Kansuke gravesite plus Hirose site and see where Takeda crossed the river from Kaizu. We will then double back to the Kawanakajima Kosenjo Park and the historical site of the 4th Battle of Kawanakajima - Hachimanbara. Here, legend has it that the leaders of all five battles once met in single combat, and we will see the statues of the rival daimyo Takeda Shingen and Uesugi Kenshin commemorated on the spot.

After the museum visit, we will move to Takeda Nobushige’s grave in the temple of Tenkyuji which also sports Japan’s largest representation of Emma-do, the guardian of hell. We will then cross the Chikumagawa river and journey to our last stop of the day - Matsushiro Castle, whose stone foundation, outer walls, gates and moat are still intact. While built by Takeda Shingen in 1560, the castle changed names from Kaizu Castle when the Sanada family came into power.

We will then hop on the coach once more to move to our second onsen town visit Shibu Onsen. Here we will enjoy dinner and once again rest our bones in the hotel’s public bath.  Note however, that we will have to choose our ryokan room carefully today, as some rooms will come with a possible option to upgrade to have their own private onsen. Please see below for more information.

Daniele's Take: Today we will explore the Battle of Kawanakajima, and learn of some of its more famous personalities...

Overnight Location: Kokuya Ryokan

Today we will relax in the Japanese Alps. You will have the day to sleep in, roll some dice and play a samurai-based game at our ryokan, stroll the quaint narrow streets of the hot spring towns of Yudanaka and Shibu Onsen, or participate in one of two optional tours.

One way to see the town is to make the trip to the nine public onsens that are scattered through the mountain villages. It is said that good fortune comes to those that visit all nine onsens and you will see many people walking the town in traditional yukata and Japanese sandals. Who knows, you might even see a snow monkey journeying through the streets away from his house further up the mountain.

Which, of course, leads us to the second optional tour and a journey to the Jigokudani Monkey Park where one can see Japanese Macaques bathing in an onsen made just for them. The monkeys are accustomed to humans and are known to pose for pictures at their onsen or on the mountain paths leading to and fro.

This year, however, we have added the special treat of visiting two other private onsens to our day – We will visit the Yamaichiya Onsen in the morning and the Sakaeya Onsen – both just down the road – in the evening. Both are optional but allow those journeying to the nine onsens to add two more (well, three, if you also visit our hotel’s onsen, which is also rather nice) to their tally and allow a quick visit pre and post to those wishing to visit the Snow Monkeys…

No matter your choice, we will be served another traditional Japanese meal followed by some gaming or our last chance to enjoy the onsen at our hotel.

Daniele's Take: Hot springs and monkeys – sounds like a perfect rest day to me!

We will continue our travels by motor coach and leave the Yamanouchi area for the long journey to Kanazawa. We hope to again discuss our favorite samurai movies and talk with Bolelli about his favorites before indulging in a film ourselves as we make our way across the western edge of the Japanese coastline.

When we arrive in Kanazawa we will first visit the Nagamachi Samurai House Area to see the incredibly preserved samurai residence, rest or waystation houses, but in particular the Ashigaru house and the Nomura Family Samurai House with its lush gardens and beautiful screen work.  We will also venture to the Kanazawa Shinise Memorial Hall. This medicine shop was established in 1579 and functioned as such through the Feudal period to the Meiji Period.  If time will allow, we will then continue with a quick walk to D.T. Suzuki Museum, who is famous for introducing and spreading interest in both Zen and Shinto in the West in the 1950s and 1960s. The gardens here are said to reflect his views on Japanese religion.

As a further exploration of samurai and merchant culture we will have a visit with Mr. Shijimaya of the Shijimaya Honpo company. The Shijimaya can trace their lineage from when they transitioned from being warriors to merchants, and while we visit his family house, we can see - and have a hands-on experience - with his collection of ancient blades and swords. For those interested, you will be able to dress up in kendogi and hakama and have a photo shoot (with his blades) in his amazing garden. We top this all off with a taste of his company’s tea and sweet treats. In 2019, we enjoyed the experience immensely and many said it was the highlight of the tour for them.

At this point, we will head back to our hotel to prepare ourselves for a feast of sushi (as Kanazawa is renowned for its sushi restaurants) …

Daniele's Take: Today offers a drive through marvelous mountain scenery finishing up in authentic old samurai dwellings. We will also talk Zen.

Overnight Location: Kanazawa

We will continue our explorations of Kanazawa today and journey to Kenroku-en Garden which is billed as one of the most beautiful gardens in Japan. We will stroll the area and take in the ponds, hills, and trees before making the short walk to Kanazawa Castle Park. The partially restored Kanazawa-jo was the headquarters of the Maeda clan which ruled this area from the Sengoku Jidai to the Meiji Restoration.

From here we will explore the Omicho Fresh Food Market which can trace its origins back to the Edo period. On sale you will see amazing seafood and produce along with florists, kitchen stores and more. We might have to wait in line for our lunch, but a traditional favorite will be the order of the day – bowls of rice topped with Kanazawa seafood.

The afternoon will see us continue to discover Kanazawa’s samurai houses by stopping at the Terashima family house as it is an elegant home, but also a perfect example of how middle-class samurai would have lived… It also provides insight into Japanese aesthetics: before entering the garden, you will see a sign naming it ‘Kensen’ (Dry Spring), which describes the pond within.

We will then make our way to the Kazumachi and Higashi Chaya districts where one can still see and visit a chaya – or teahouse. During the Edo period one could see the song and dance performances of geisha in entertainment districts such as these. As a matter of fact, there are two chaya still open to the public, but if you want the real tea ceremony experience we have an optional stop at the Soyu Chado (additional fees may apply). If you like you can then venture to the Gold Leaf Museum or return to the hotel for a well-deserved nap.

We will gather again for dinner to enjoy the taste of Kanazawa with a local specialty: Kaga ryōri.

Daniele's Take: A day to explore traditional Japanese culture in a leisurely way.

Overnight Location: Kanazawa

Today we leave Kanazawa to begin our trip south to the Sekigahara area, but our first stop will be to what is considered the oldest still standing castle in Japan – Maruoka-jo. The amazing view from the top of this small three-story castle (along with its “hidden” floor) is only accessible to the stout of heart, via its steep wooden stairs and suspended ropes to help you scale the climb.

We will have lunch at a local restaurant on the way south and Omigyu will be on the menu so expect to have a taste of this Japanese brand of beef…

Our second castle of the day will be Hikone Castle which was built in 1622 and survived both the feudal and modern age and retains its original moat, walls, guardhouses and gates. Further, its reconstructed palace buildings make for one of the best complete examples of a feudal castle in all of Japan. This castle also has at least one connection to the battle of Sekigahara – it was the home of Ii Naotaka and his “Red Devils” who fought in that battle. As such, we will be sure to take in the museum at the castle as well.

After discovering Hikone Castle, we hope to arrive at our hotel in time to see the restored (though largely modern) Nagahama Castle but to also have a castle-eye view of Lake Biwa. While not much is left of Nagahama castle, its reproduction is worth a visit and the park is a lovely place for a short stroll along the lakeside. Nagahama Castle was built by Hideyoshi Toyotomi after he received the land from Oda Nobunaga in 1573. After the Battle of Sekigahara, however, it was subsequently demolished by the Tokugawa shogunate’s ‘one domain, one castle’ edict.. Today, the castle and park are used as a starting point for enjoying views of Lake Biwa. Biwako (as it is affectionately called) appears in much of Japan’s ancient poetry and literature, and of course in many accounts of historical battles.

We recommend a quick onsen break at the hotel’s wonderful facilities, to be followed by another group dinner where we will enjoy some Western food at the Nagahama Beer Brewery.

Daniele's Take: Even more castles and then a pause on one of the most famous lakes in all of Japan...

Overnight Location: Nagahama

Today will be our first day in Sekigahara. The town will be gearing up for the annual Battle of Sekigahara Festival and enthusiasts and re-enactors will be gathering here from all around the country. The goal of the festival is to turn the clock back to 1600, and you will see many people walking around in full samurai armour. There are live stage events and loads of demonstrations reminiscent of the time period (although some will definitely have some Japanese pop culture aspects to them). We will hop into the festival spirit and celebrate as the locals do, and who knows, you might even meet a samurai or two or pick up some period-related goods from Japan’s warring clans.

But first, we will be off on a battlefield hike and we will be joined by a local private guide to help us visit the most important seven points of interest including Tokugawa Ieyasu’s final base camp, Higashi Kubizuka Temple where over 40,000 heads are buried, and Ishida Mitsunari’s base camp. Daniele will also be teaching us about the battlefield, and with the help of the local guide, perhaps we will uncover some interesting and often overlooked sites.

We have updated our tour this year to take in the new Gifu Sekigahara Battlefield Memorial Museum... This will be a treat even for your guide as last time we travelled to Sekigahara it was only being built...

As we ascend the mountain to the base camp and a picnic lunch, we will make sure we stop at the local town office to check on our reservations of samurai or ashigaru armour for the next day’s adventures… We encourage everyone to dress up, but it is a completely optional (but fun) experience. Frankly, those that turn down the offer almost universally regret it. In 2019, we were even allowed to join in the next day’s parade…

If we have time after exploring the battlefield, we will make the quick drive to Ogaki Castle or “The City of Water” which was originally under the power of Oda Nobunaga and Toyotomi Hideyoshi – some of the most important historical figures of Japan. The leader of the Western Army, Ishida Mitsunari occupied Ogaki Castle prior to the Battle of Sekigahara, but after his defeat at that battle, Ogaki was eventually besieged and overtaken by Tokugawa Ieyasu. The castle was destroyed by a bombing raid in 1945, but rebuilt as a modern reproduction complete with museum, weapon and armour displays, and even videos explaining the history of the castle and the Battle of Sekigahara (although in Japanese as of last visit). Further, the small park offers many statues and some great photo ops.

Just down the street, and also included with our castle ticket, is the Ogaki Folk Museum… This often-overlooked museum, has an amazing garden, displays on armour and of particular interest, the Sekigahara Screen. This famous art piece brings the battle alive before us.

We will then transfer back to our hotel in Nagahama, indulge in their onsen and gather again for dinner before retiring for the evening in anticipation of our return to the Sekigahara festival tomorrow.

Daniele's Take: Yet another hike, but this time on the battlefield of Sekigahara with a local guide!

Overnight Location: Nagahama

Today we will watch the Battle of Sekigahara dramatization put on by re-enactors gathered from across Japan, and again participate in the festival. First, however, we will gather near Mitsunari’s base camp to see and cheer on those tour participants that opted to don their own samurai armour. We will then mingle with the other samurai giving speeches and demonstrations prior to posing for photos. After the photo op, we will watch the samurai re-enactors march to the town square to dazzle us as they match wits and bring the Battle of Sekigahara alive – Japanese style…

For those of you who elected to don a samurai or ashigaru set of armour, we will try to beat the lines to get you outfitted in time to stand with other re-enactors for some special photo shoots…

Please note, if you want to get a good view of the dramatization/re-enactment, then you should leave a bit prior to when the parade departs the stage area. The samurai will move to the town square where they will gather for battle. Be sure to get there soon to secure a space in the front row…

We will then have time to explore the booths we missed, grab a bite to eat and visit with the locals prior to departing the festival to return to Nagoya.

After freshening up, we will head out on our last evening together and Farewell Dinner at a local Izakaya.

Daniele's Take: A re-enactment, the chance to dress up as a samurai, and a festival? What is there left to say?

Overnight Location: Nagoya Kanko Hotel

Today many will be returning home and will thus leave for Nagoya international airport. GNT will make reservations and you will be given detailed instructions on how to get to the airport and return home.

Breakfast included.

For those that will be carrying onwards with our tour extension, today we will leave Nagoya to make the journey to Kyoto by Bullet Train to Kyoto.  If you haven't experienced a Shinkansen before you are in for a treat as we will have "Green Ken" or first-class tickets to ride in comfort. We will arrive at Kyoto Station which is also a delight and one of the biggest train stations in Japan. Here we will board our coach to further explore samurai culture...

Our first stop is a continuation of our explorations of Sekigahara with one of Japan’s Blood Temples or Chitenjo (meaning "blood ceilings").    Just prior to the events at Sekigahara, Torii Mototada was ordered by Tokugawa Ieyasu to hold Fushimi Castle at all costs. It was known that the castle would fall but would delay Ishida Mitsunari enough for the Eastern armies to consolidate in Gifu. When it was obvious that the castle was lost, Mototada and 375 warriors committed seppuku staining the castle floorboards with blood. After the Battle of Sekigahara, Ieyasu ordered the bloodstained wood salvaged from Fushimi and used in the construction of temples across Kyoto. Mototada and his warriors then would be immortalized for their heroism in places of peace for all time. For something a bit lighter, next door to Yogenin Temple is another site to behold - Rengeo-in Sanjusngendo and its 28 Kannon and 1001 Buddha statues…

By this time we will all be ready for lunch and thus we will head off to the Nishiki Market for a late lunch and visit, followed by the amazing and (when in Japan) obligatory visit to the spectacular Kinkakuji (The Gold Pavilion) which because of it golden brilliance is one of the most popular temples in all of Japan.

You'll have some time to relax (and maybe take in the hotel onsen) before we head out again for another traditional Japanese dinner.

Daniele's Take: The Blood Temples will tie this visit to Sekigahara...and... well... Blood Temples?

Overnight Location: Hotel Vischio Kyoto by Granvia

Today we continue our macabre exploration of the Japan’s Blood Temples or Chitenjo and the battle of Sekigahara... We will first visit Genkou-an where the ceiling features clear bloodied hand and footprints. Then we will head off to the often missed Shoden-ji to see its beautiful gardens surrounded by the northern Kyoto woods and the distinct blood patterns on its ceiling boards... Finally, we will go to the tranquil gardens of the Hosen-in and its not-so-tranquil ceiling.

Don't worry though - we will also get you to a place that will soothe the soul with what we consider to be the most amazing temples in all of Japan. Not many people visit here, as it is quite out of the way, so you are in store for a treat. The Ikkyu-ji, or Shuon-an, is the home of one of Daniele's favorite monks - Ikkyu Sojun. He was quite the character and is much loved by the Japanese people.  He is also featured in two History on Fire episodes - Sex, Sake and Zen and Enjoying Hell which explore his life and thoughts. Be sure to give them a listen prior to departing for Japan...

Once we reach our hotel, you are welcome to head off into Kyoto to explore and dine on your own for the rest of the day. A multitude of temples and shrines abound in Kyoto with some of our favorites being the Tofuku-ji (known throughout Japan as a special place to view autumn colours), Byodo-in Temple (known for its beautiful garden) or the Fushimi Inari Shrine and its endless Torii gates…. Or if you are in the mood for another Zen temple in particular, consider one of the most important Zen temples (again, in all of Japan) Ryoan-ji and a personal favorite …

There is, of course, tonnes of shopping in and around Kyoto Station (and a good example of a Japanese department store is Yodobashi on the other side of the station). More shopping can be seen by venturing to the Teramachi and Shin Kyogoku Shopping arcades. Or, BTW next door to the hotel boasts one of the best Anime stores in all of Japan - Animate Kyoto Avanti

Or there is always the option of just chilling at a café or izakaya…

Daniele's Take: I am most looking forward to returning to the resting place of one of my heroes - Ikkyu Sojun known as both heretic and saint.

Overnight Location: Hotel Vischio Kyoto by Granvia

We will be off to a truly different samurai experience at the Toei Uzumasa Eigamura, or Kyoto Studio Movie Park. Here you will be immersed into an Edo-period small town, movie studio, and theme park all rolled into one.

As well as being an actual movie studio (who knows - you might see a Japanese actor or actress or two), you will see a recreation of the Nihonbashi bridge, courthouse and police box, and even an ancient red-light district. Park guides and living history actors are dressed in period costumes and fun is had by all… There is even a Ninja Maze (full of secret passages, revolving doors and traps), Ninja Performances (Ninja Show - but watch out for throwing stars), Samurai Sword Fighting Lessons, a look behind the scenes of Jidaigeki (Period Dramas), a Haunted House and a 3D theater. You can even get dressed up in one of their cool geisha, samurai, or ninja costumes. Want a bit of anime thrown in? There is even an area dedicated to anime exhibits.

The day will not end there, and more Samurai goodness is planned. We will all participate in a Samurai Kembu (sword dance) lesson and become more acquainted with the aspects of the etiquette of the samurai class and how to use a samurai sword. This often-hidden school is said to be a gem in Kyoto, not often frequented by tourists. (Ok we won’t become Musashis in the two hours we are there, but we should have loads of fun and look pretty cool doing it)

After our lesson we will make our way directly to a local restaurant for our Farewell Dinner…

We will return to our hotel after a long day of adventuring to finish packing and preparing to return home … For those of you who might want to get a final beer in after packing, I am sure we can find an izakaya down the street.

Daniele's Take: Talk about bringing something home from Japan?  A sword dance lesson? Now, I can show off to Savannah...

Overnight Location: Hotel Vischio Kyoto by Granvia

All good things must end, unfortunately, and today we return to the Kyoto Itami/Osaka Kansai airports (Limousine Airport Bus included) and depart for home. The photos, memories, and friendships you made on the tour are yours to keep forever!